Gramercy Tavern’s Chef Michael Anthony: On NYC’s top 5 restaurants & how to stay relevant
(This article by Jenny Nguyen-Barron appeared first on ForbesLife. To read the original, click here)
For two decades, Gramercy Tavern has been the darling of modern American restaurants in New York, respected for its ongoing commitment to using fresh, seasonal ingredients and for continually pushing to discover and innovate. At the helm of the restaurant for the last 8 years and no stranger to restaurant enthusiasts in New York and beyond, is Executive Chef Michael Anthony. Anthony, a thoughtful, cerebral chef with a cultured approach came to Gramercy Tavern via Tokyo, Paris and then New York where he gained valuable experience at revered restaurants such as Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Daniel.
Rather serendipitously, Anthony came to his now business partner Danny Meyer (CEO of Union Square Hospitality Group) looking for advice on a business plan for his own restaurant, which he says looked a lot like Gramercy Tavern, only much smaller. When Meyer came back to him with an offer to take the wheel at Gramercy Tavern, Anthony knew almost immediately that working alongside a partner with Meyer’s “rare kindness and a special staff-first philosophy that resonates so well”, there could only be one decision. 8 Years later, Anthony knows that he made the right choice to join this timeless restaurant so beloved by himself, his staff and its customers.
To get deeper into Chef Anthony’s reflective, highly considered culinary mind, Melting Butter met with him to discuss the ins and outs of staying relevant in the New York restaurant scene, the impact that living and travelling abroad has made on his cooking and his overall enjoyment of food and finally his favorite go-to restaurants in NYC and Tokyo.
Inside Gramercy Tavern – Photo: By Maura McEvoy, Courtesy of Gramercy Tavern
JENNY NGUYEN-BARRON: Gramercy Tavern is a classic New York restaurant ”“ practically an institution. How do you stay fresh and relevant in NYC’s ever-changing restaurant world?
CHEF MICHAEL ANTHONY: We consistently reinforce the genuine warm welcome, the up to the minute information about our food and the technical training while constantly searching to reinvent ourselves. It’s also down to the mentality of how we work ”“ we’re not trend driven and we’re always leaning on our strengths but still taking risks in order to impress people.
Our people are a huge part of how we stay relevant too. They are passionate and they look forward to coming to work and that’s because we’re always making sure we celebrate a job well done.
NGUYEN-BARRON: What’s the star dish that customers shouldn’t look past when dining in the tavern and the dining room?
ANTHONY: A guiding light for us is the smoked trout with onions. It’s simple, under manipulated with only a few ingredients allowing us to show off the real flavors.
NGUYEN-BARRON: You’ve lived, trained and worked abroad for a good part of your career. In your opinion, what sets the New York restaurant scene apart from other world food capitals?
ANTHONY: New York has a liberating quality about it especially when you live and work here. As soon as you arrive in this city, you feel as if you already belong. Paris is different; you need to work at it. And Tokyo too ”“ you always have the feeling that you’re a foreigner.
What I love most about working in New York is that we’re not bound by tradition here, which allows us to be free to express ourselves and to be creative.
NGUYEN-BARRON: Which food city inspires you most in the world and why?
ANTHONY: Definitely Tokyo ”“ there’s an interesting duality in that city which allows for a great variety of excellent food at every price point.
NGUYEN-BARRON: Do you have any favorite restaurants there?
ANTHONY: For sushi I love Nakamura in Roppongi for his delicate style and lightness of his approach. I also love the way Chef Seiji Yamamoto from Ryugin creates an overwhelming flavor in his food ”“ he really goes beyond any boundaries when he turns out the restaurant’s Kaiseki menu. I also can’t go past the Kaiseki menu at Kikunoi by Chef Yoshihiro Murata.
NGUYEN-BARRON: You spent time cooking in France and Japan so we can safely assume you know a thing or two about both styles of cuisine. Which high and low end NYC restaurants are turning out the best French food?
ANTHONY: For higher end French I will always choose Daniel. Casual French food is definitely under-represented in this city but I think the new restaurant Dirty French is doing a good job of filling that gap.
NGUYEN-BARRON: And what about Japanese restaurants in NYC?
ANTHONY: There are so many high-end Japanese restaurants in NYC. Brushstroke, Sushi Yasuda and Sushi Zen are excellent and Masa is so pure. In terms of lower end Japanese, you would have to go for ramen ”“ I like Hide Chan and Minca Ramen.
NGUYEN-BARRON: Is there an NYC chef you look up to most? Why?
ANTHONY: Chef Suzuki at Sushi Zen. He is one of the most generous and talented chefs I have ever met. He dedicates an incredible amount of time to teaching and sharing, and his food is masterful.
NGUYEN-BARRON: What’s your next big goal?
ANTHONY: To prepare Gramercy Tavern for taking a few big steps forward in 2015. We have one of the most talented teams ever and those people are looking for challenges.
CHEF MICHAEL ANTHONY’S TOP 5 NYC RESTAURANTS
1. Marta
Chef Nick Anderer, one of my old colleague’s new restaurants ”“ he is all about Roman style pizza but he’s also making so many other delicious and light creations in his kitchen.
Martha Washington hotel, 29 E 29th St, New York, NY 10016
(212) 651-3800
Inside Marta ”“ Photo: By Alice Gao, courtesy of Marta
Capricciosa pizza with Mozzarella, Artichokes, Prosciutto, Olives, and Egg – Photo: By Alice Gao, courtesy of Marta
2. Charlie Bird
Charlie Bird is one of the best for casual dining ”“ the food is excellent and so is the environment they’ve created using casual contemporary music.
5 King St, New York, NY 10012
(212) 235-7133
Inside Charlie Bird ”“ Photo: Courtesy of Charlie Bird
3. The Modern
The Modern, which is part of MoMA just reopened and it’s brand new now. I think the food has an equal draw now and it feels much less pretentious and stiff than it used to be.
9 W 53rd St, New York, NY 10019
(212) 333-1220
The Modern Interior ”“ Photo: By Ellen Silverman, courtesy of The Modern
4. Maysville
The contemporary American cooking with Southern influences at Maysville is incredibly nuanced.
17 W 26th St, New York, NY 10010
(646) 490-8240
Inside Maysville ”“ Photo: Courtesy of Maysville
5. Battersby
You won’t find food that is better cooked than at Battersby. Joe and Walker who are the chefs and partners of the restaurant are creating excellent, low-key, contemporary American food.
http://www.battersbybrooklyn.com/
255 Smith St, Brooklyn, NY 11231
(718) 852-8321
Inside Battersby ”“ Photo: Courtesy of Battersby
(Feature image: Gramercy Tavern Executive Chef Michael Anthony ”“ Photo: By Ellen Silverman, courtesy of Gramercy Tavern)
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