Newly relocated, Dover Street Market London can now be found via a side entrance at 18-22 Haymarket, Piccadilly. Collaboration and regeneration continue to help form the self-described ”˜beautiful chaos’ that is the multi-brand store’s fascinating story.

Comme des Garçons (Comme) was founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, its first London premise was in a space owned by the boutique Browns. Rei’s husband, Adrian Joffe, later suggested buying the old home of the Institute of Contemporary Art on Dover Street in Mayfair, not just for their own label but to invite others to join them. Inspired by Kensington Market, Rei agreed and Dover Street Market, owned by Comme, was born.

That was in 2004. In 2007 after years of relentless work, British VOGUE described Dover Street Market (DSM) as “The Best Shop in the World”, in turn providing a necessary boost to business at that time. Now DSM is world-renowned for several reasons, including its bi-annual ”˜tachigari’, where the interior of the store is reborn twice a year with an unparalleled edit of brands. The resulting retail ripple effect influenced a tidal wave of rent increases when the time came to renew its contract. Rei and Adrian were spurred to move to alternative property approximately half a mile east and with three times more space, the Grade II-listed building, originally erected by Burberry in 1912.

Kawakubo has honored the original design by leaving the ceilings, windows and central staircase untouched. Brands with dedicated spaces have been given the freedom to create their own design, providing they don’t erect walls and respect the surrounding area. Paul Smith modestly took the exact dimensions of his first (tiny) shop that he opened in Nottingham in 1970. Similarly, Simone Rocha has referenced her Mount Street store complete with Plexiglas fixtures. Jonathan Anderson created a playground inspired by one in his hometown in Northern Ireland, a slide and climbing frame can be found adorned with bags. Independent and intelligent, DSM has given us even more - a place where Gucci and Dior meet Molly Goddard and Phoebe English, where NikeLab shares a basement with Gosha Rubchinskiy.

I picked up a copy of Luncheon magazine, which launched at DSM and whose editor-in-chief Frances von Hofmannsthal is the daughter of photographer Lord Snowdon. After flicking through over tea and scones in the Anglo-French Rose Bakery operated by Joffe’s sister Rose Carrarini, my waitress kindly urged me to take a look at Hofmannsthal’s smock coats and bags inspired by the backdrops from Lord Snowdon’s photography studio. A studio which has been recreated temporarily as part of a project corner to display her range. All of this now exists on the same fifth floor that once held Christopher Bailey’s office.

Joffe has spoken about the importance of emotion and relationships in brick and mortar retail. Evidenced by who you bump into or the creatives you discover, there’s a strong feeling of serendipity stemming from the beautiful chaos that embraces what happens when things come together fuelled by change, not by five year plans.

http://london.doverstreetmarket.com

Dover Street Market London
18-22 Haymarket, Piccadilly, London
+44 20 7518 0680

Alaia at Dover Street Market London

Black Comme des Garcons at Dover Street Market

Delvaux at Dover Street Market

Elena Dawson at Dover Street Market

Margaret Howell at Dover Street Market

Noir Kei Ninomiya at Dover Street Market

Simone Rocha at Dover Street Market

The Row at Dover Street Market

Reemé is based in London. After a few years working as a freelance fashion stylist, she now produces content and events for landowners, agencies and brands. She enjoys destinations that blend hospitality with retail. Find Reemé on Instagram + Twitter.

(Photos courtesy of Dover Street Market London)

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