Restaurant Find: Ellory London
We’re a bit envious of the creatives working away in Hackney media hub Netil House. In addition to a rooftop bar and neighbouring market, they merely have to amble down to the ground floor to dine at much-lauded restaurant and wine bar  Ellory. Occupying the building’s former nightclub, Ellory London has a coolly austere industrial look: concrete flooring, wooden tables and a monochrome bar ”“ kept light and bright by a wall of windows and hanging globe lights.
The staff are enthusiastic and the kitchen are remarkably accommodating to a request for dairy-free options too (switching buttery sauces for tomato-based), and diners are regaled with a tempting glimpse of Ellory’s future (a lengthier bar menu, communal seating, a fresh lick of Farrow & Ball).
Ellory is a fine-dining purebred, combining the palates of ex-Mayfields chef Matthew Young and former River Café sommelier Jack Lewens. However, Ellory’s not laser-focused on Michelin stardom; it’s adopted a conceit-free, East-London loucheness, swapping its tasting menu for a selection of snacks to mains. Fish is a speciality: from fat, delicately crisped octopus to the signature lemon sole, dressed in daikon-slice scales. Lewens’ wine list is a fascinating read too, eschewing a house Chardonnay and second-cheapest Sauvignon for minimum-intervention (Cataratto Ciello Blanco), biodynamic (Gran Cerdo Tempranillo) and amphorae-aged (Loxarel Xarello) picks. All compelling reasons for hiring one of the studio spaces upstairs, whether you can draw or not”¦
Ellory London
Netil House
1 Westgate Street, London E8 3RL
+44 (0) 203 095 9455
(Feature and squid dish photo courtesy of Ellory London, asparagus photo by @LondonTastin)
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